What Exactly Are Raw Denim and Selvedge Denim?

You hear denim experts throw around terms like "raw" and "selvedge." The concepts feel tangled and confusing, making it hard to confidently choose the right fabric for your designs.

Dean, the insight you shared perfectly captures the essence of this topic. On my factory floor, we deal with these terms every single day, and they refer to two completely different things. One is about a process—or rather, the lack of one.

The other is about the construction of the fabric itself, decided long before it even reaches my sewing machines. Think of it this way: "raw" is a choice we make at the factory, while "selvedge" is a quality inherent to the fabric we receive from the mill. Let's untangle these two crucial concepts.

You see "raw denim" and "raw selvedge denim" on fabric spec sheets. This makes you wonder if they are the same thing or if one is a higher quality version.

Let's break this down from a manufacturing perspective. "Raw" means we skip the entire laundry department. A "raw selvedge" jean is made from selvedge fabric and then also skips the wash process. A "raw non-selvedge" jean is made from modern, wide-loom fabric and also skips the wash process. Most of the jeans you see in department stores are "washed non-selvedge."

The reason raw denim is so often selvedge is philosophical. As you noted, a brand that cares enough to produce quality, craft-oriented raw denim will likely also invest in the high-quality fabric made on a shuttle loom. It’s a commitment to a certain way of doing things.

You see the high price tag on raw jeans and wonder how to justify it. Customers are used to soft, comfortable denim, so selling stiff, unwashed jeans seems like a huge challenge.

What you called "a nod to a pastime" is exactly right. Raw denim is an experience. In my factory, a typical pair of jeans goes through dozens of washing, sanding, and finishing processes to create a "vintage" look. We use lasers to create whiskers and hand-sand areas to simulate wear. Raw denim skips all of this. The deep, dark indigo dye is left untouched on the surface of the cotton fibers.

When the customer wears the jeans, their body and their habits—how they sit, what they put in their pockets—begin to chip away at that indigo. This process creates fades that are 100% unique to them. They aren't buying a finished product; they are buying the start of a project. That personal journey is what makes it so special.

You're considering a raw denim program, but you're worried about the downsides. You fear customer complaints about stiffness, shrinking, and color bleeding, which could lead to returns.

These disadvantages are real, and as a designer, you need to plan for them. It's about managing customer expectations. First, the stiffness is no joke. The fabric can feel like cardboard at first. Second, shrinkage is a major technical challenge. We have to account for it in our patterns. Most raw denim is "sanforized," a process that uses steam to pre-shrink the fabric, limiting shrinkage to about 1-3%. 

But "unsanforized" or "loomstate" denim can shrink up to 10%! That's two full sizes. Finally, there's "crocking," which is the technical term for the indigo dye rubbing off. The customer has to know that their new jeans will stain light-colored shoes, couches, and car seats. It's a feature, not a bug, but it must be communicated clearly.

You know selvedge denim is expensive. You need to understand its true purpose to justify the cost and explain its value to both your team and your customers.

As your insight correctly pointed out, "selvedge" comes from "self-edge." It refers to how the fabric is made. A vintage shuttle loom passes the weft thread back and forth in one continuous motion. As it loops back at the edge of the fabric, it creates a clean, tightly woven band that cannot fray. 

Modern looms are faster because they shoot individual threads across, leaving a raw, cut edge that has to be finished with an overlock stitch. The selvedge edge is structurally more secure. But beyond its function, it has become a symbol. When a customer sees that selvedge ID line on a cuffed jean, they are seeing a guarantee that the fabric was made slowly, on a vintage machine known for giving the denim a unique character and texture. It's a badge of quality.

Raw denim is about the finish—a blank canvas for personalization. Selvedge is about the fabric's construction—a mark of quality craftsmanship. Understanding both is key to creating truly exceptional jeans.