How to tell pure denim from stretchy denim jeans?

You’re staring at a wall of jeans, unable to tell the difference. Will they be stiff and rigid, or will they sag by lunchtime? It’s frustrating to choose without knowing.

At my factory, we handle massive rolls of both types of denim every day. Designers like Dean will specify exactly what fabric they need for a certain fit or look.

You found a great-looking pair of jeans. But will they be comfortable all day, or will they restrict your movement? You need to know before you buy.

At DiZNEW, the first thing we do with a new fabric roll is check its specs. For you, the care label inside the jeans is the most reliable source of truth. 

You see lots of pants that look like jeans, but some feel thin and flimsy. You want to make sure you’re buying authentic, durable denim, not an imitation.

This is my specialty. Real denim is defined by its weave. It’s a specific type of cotton twill where the dyed warp threads (usually indigo) go over two or more white weft threads. This creates the classic diagonal pattern you can see if you look closely at the fabric. It’s also why the inside of your jeans is usually a lighter, almost white color, compared to the deep blue on the outside. The fabric itself should feel strong and a bit rugged in your hands. It has a certain weight and structure to it. Sometimes, you’ll see pants that are indigo-colored but are not true denim. A common example is chambray, which is much lighter and has a simpler plain weave, lacking the diagonal lines. The biggest giveaway is the feel. If it feels too soft, too light, or perfectly smooth like a t-shirt, it is likely not traditional denim. Real denim has texture and character.

You love the comfort of stretch jeans, but a part of you feels like you’re cheating. Are you still wearing “real” jeans, or are they something else entirely?

Think of it this way: the foundation of the fabric is still cotton, and the construction method is still a twill weave. The core identity of denim is all there. We are just adding a modern ingredient. For many decades, all jeans were 100% cotton. But our lifestyles have changed. People wanted jeans they could move in, sit comfortably in, and wear all day without feeling restricted. Stretch denim was the industry’s answer to that need. Today, the majority of jeans we produce for brands, especially for slim and skinny fits, contain at least 1-2% stretch. It’s an evolution of the fabric to meet modern demands. The stretch fibers enhance the cotton denim; they don’t replace it. It’s still the same durable, classic fabric you know, just with added comfort.

You’re choosing between a stretch pair and a regular 100% cotton pair. They look similar, but you know they’ll feel and wear very differently over time.

Choosing between the two comes down to what you value most: immediate comfort or traditional durability. At our factory, we work with both, and each has its purpose. Regular, 100% cotton denim is the classic choice. It’s stiff at first and requires a “break-in” period to soften and mold to your body. Over time, it develops unique fades and creases based on how you wear it. It is incredibly durable. Stretch denim, on the other hand, is comfortable from the very first wear. It moves with your body and is perfect for slimmer fits. However, the elastic fibers can break down over time, especially if exposed to high heat in the dryer. This means they might not last as long as a 100% cotton pair. Neither one is better than the other; they just offer very different experiences.

To tell pure from stretch denim, check the tag for spandex or just give the fabric a pull. Both are authentic, but one prioritizes comfort, the other classic durability.